Madeleine Vionnet

1876-1975

SELECTION

Madeleine Vionnet, inventor of the bias cut and draping, is one of the most admired figures of Parisian haute couture of the inter-war period, and was known during her time as "the architect of couture". She radically transformed the conception of a garment by substituting the traditional cut of fabric in the direction of the weft or weave, instead cutting diagonally on the bias. Fascinated by ancient Greece, she tried to reinvent free draping by reducing the number of seams and fastenings.

haute couture, spring-summer 1937

haute couture, spring-summer 1937

haute couture, autumn-winter 1938-1939

haute couture, circa 1933

haute couture, winter 1925

haute couture, spring-summer 1925

  • haute couture, spring-summer 1937

    Evening dress and cape, Madeleine Vionnet

    Midnight blue and blood red silk crepe.High collar, sleeveless with deep cut armscyes. A-line silhouette. Cape with reversible hood.

    Spring-summer 1937

    FAA.VIO.0001

    Azzedine Alaïa Foundation

    Ph. Patricia Schwoerer

  • haute couture, spring-summer 1937

    Evening dress, Madeleine Vionnet

    model 4271

    Charcoal silk organza stripes and black silk cord mesh. Scoop neckline, short capeline sleeves, fitted with a flared skirt.Underdress in organza and silk crepe.

    Spring-summer 1937

    FAA.VIO. 0007.1-2

    Azzedine Alaïa Foundation

    Ph. Patricia Schwoerer

  • haute couture, autumn-winter 1938-1939

    Evening dress, Madeleine Vionnet

    model 4558

    Black silk velvet with fuchsia, soft pink and lavender floral inlays in the same material.V-neck, flared shape, low cut back.

    Autumn-winter 1938-1939

    FAA.VIO. 0008

    Azzedine Alaïa Foundation

    Ph. Patricia Schwoerer

  • haute couture, circa 1933

    Evening dress, Madeleine Vionnet

    Indigo silk satin.Boat neckline, draped and pleated from the shoulder, waist marked by pleating in the centre front.Covered button closure at back, skirt ending in a train.

    Circa 1933

    FAA.VIO. 0011

    Azzedine Alaïa Foundation

    Ph. Patricia Schwoerer

  • haute couture, winter 1925

    Day dress Madeleine Vionnet

    Day dress, Haute couture, winter 1925. Ivory colored silk crepe, black and ivory colored satin inlays of nature and cosmos motifs. "Lavallière" tie neck collar and sleeves fastened with a ribbon.

    Winter 1925

    FAA.VIO. 0010

    Azzedine Alaïa Foundation

    Ph. Patricia Schwoerer

  • haute couture, spring-summer 1925

    Evening dress, Madeleine Vionnet

    model 4113

    Black silk crepe, embroidery by Lesage in silver thread and copper beads, forming a teardrop motif at the chest and almond shaped motifs at the hips, pointed hem on both sides.

    Spring-summer 1925

    FAA.VIO. 0006

    Azzedine Alaïa Foundation

    Ph. Patricia Schwoerer